The 90’s was the definitive golden age for many fashion brands. It signaled a new era of bold and progressive designs that continue to influence many fashion brands today. Just thirty years ago, Hong Kong was booming with many large fashion stores. The most iconic, JOYCE, has already introduced brands like Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. Then came the Japanese Seibu Department Store, and local stores such as Lane Crawford, Green Peace, D-mop, and others, each with an eye for style, bringing in brands such as Diesel, W<, and even more fashion-forward brands like Helmut Lang and COMME des GARÇONS SHIRT. At the time, one had to visit the store to stay up to date with the latest fashion trends. It was from this special era that our interviewee, fashion expert Wallace Kwan, made his mark in fashion. During his formative years, Wallace bought his first Helmut Lang with his summer savings. It was a purchase that proved to be a meaningful investment, not only did it become a muse for Wallace’s work, the designers behind the garment also became an inspiration for Wallace. Since then, Wallace has worked in the local fashion industry for over 22 years. Today, we peer into his unrivaled expertise in fashion, and discuss his vintage collection.
You’ve been in the fashion industry for 22 years, have you witnessed any significant changes in the world of fashion?
“Back in 2001, I was a buyer for the local chain Double Park. As a result, I regularly traveled to the United States and Japan. I later moved on as a designer for their sub-brand, fingercroxx. In 2007, I was appointed as the Creative Director for the local brand :CHOCOOLATE. Our team built and developed everything from design, production, creative vision, and promotion. During that time, I also traveled to Paris to buy merchandise for our parent company I.T. I witnessed the peak of COMME des GARÇONS, Junya Watanabe, and Maison Martin Margiela (later renamed Maison Margiela after being acquired by Diesel). From Margiela’s opening and subsequent closing on On Lan Street, I guess you could say I witnessed significant changes.”
You started collecting clothes from different brands from the 90's to the 2000s, was this largely because of your work?
"It was mostly my passion for fashion. Since leaving my job last year, I had time to organize my wardrobe at home, and it certainly felt like sorting out my life. Whilst I was sifting through my clothes, I discovered many clothes I’ve collected from my 20s. Back then, I was still studying design at a local industrial college. I was fortunate to learn about brands like COMME des GARÇONS and Yohji Yamamoto through fashion magazines. Although I loved their designs, they were simply unaffordable. I could only be an ardent admirer from afar. Coincidentally, in the late 90s, then niche brands like Alexander McQueen, Helmut Lang, Hussein Chalayan, Martin Margiela, and Owen Gaster announced themselves to the world. They carried a deconstructed aesthetic, with avant-garde yet practical designs. This was eye-opening for me. I worked part-time and saved up just enough to afford one of Helmut Lang’s designs, and because it was so hard-earned, I’ve kept it in my wardrobe ever since. Just as DJs would collect vinyl records, these clothes became my reference books.”
When you were a designer, did you draw inspiration from your collection?
The cutting and the materials of these clothes were a large part of my adoration for them, but I also deeply respected the designer’s life philosophy and concepts. That to me, was the main reason I started collecting their designs. I also enjoy reading their interviews, it’s like reading their biographies, and from there I can gauge their ideas and thinking. These designers were pioneers of their field. I would draw inspiration from their choice of fabric and cutting. Take Helmut Lang’s military jackets and denim jeans as an example, the placement of pockets, the washed treatment, and even their earthy tones were very avant-garde and bold. You can still see its influence today, just look at Kanye West’s YEEZY (Kanye is a fan of Helmut Lang).”
Care to share some of your favorite pieces from your collection?
"Back when I was still in school, I had to save up from part-time jobs. Once I had enough, I went to Seibu Department Store in Pacific Place, Admiralty. It was there that I bought my first piece from Helmut Lang. The 90’s aesthetic combined military elements with practicality. The reflective materials on the shoulders and pockets were considered very avant-garde at the time. Helmut Lang (pictured on the right) wore it himself."
"This suit jacket by COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS from 1998 boasts a reversible design. The pleated inner trim and checkered outer showcase intricate craftsmanship and dyeing techniques. I appreciate this piece so much, I’ve actually never worn it."
"This Alexander McQueen jacket features a tire print design. It was released during the Spring/Summer season of 1997, and personally, it is a piece I really like. Looking at current fashion trends, this piece truly is timeless, with shorter jackets making a comeback."
"Later on, my work took me to Japan. In Japan, I bought many second-hand COMME des GARÇONS clothes at RAG TAG. I bought this piece from the HOMME series around the millennium, twenty or more years later, it remains timeless."
"In 2007, visvim opened their store on On Lan Street in Hong Kong, and in the 2010 Autumn/Winter season, I bought this GORE-TEX WIND STOPPER horse hide jacket. The label inside was personally signed by the brand's mastermind, Hiroki Nakamura, as an approval of the quality of the garment. Truly precious."
Searching and shopping for vintage items have become a recent trend of late, any thoughts on why archival products have been gaining popularity?
"To my personal understanding, 90’s fashion design was constrained by technology and norms. This made completing a full collection every season challenging for designers. Whereas nowadays, starting a brand is easier than before, but that makes standing out from the rest significantly harder. Many contemporary brands share similar design concepts. If people seek uniqueness, they will have to turn to earlier or vintage designs."
If you are interested in Wallace's vintage collection, keep an eye on his official Instagram and stay updated on HBX Archives’ release. We will also feature a curated collection of Wallace's vintage items at the HBX Causeway Bay Hysan Place store. Don’t miss out!
HBX Causeway Bay, Shop B113 & 115, Basement 1, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Hong Kong