Now introducing Saint Laurent for the first time on HBX, the latest offering is the label fully realising a progressive revision of the house, delivering an array of striking looks that reinvent the “heroin chic” popularised when the label was found. Sleek blazers, body-hugging jeans, gently-pointed boots and mostly-unbuttoned shirts retain the tenets that make the brand one of Kering’s reliable house of fashion. Statement outerwear, like raw-hemmed gown coats, sparkling bombers and marching band-inspired jackets, provide a bold counterpoint to understated all-black looks, with leather pants and monochrome scarves gently nudging the looks towards boldness.
The collection is also a demonstration of the new values informing Anthony Vaccarello’s design ethos, with influences drawn from “the irreverent allure of Mick Jagger and the Parisian nonchalance of Serge Gainsbourg,” bolstered by the looks worn by Jagger’s Stones during the 1975 tour. Sequined one-shoulder tops, deep v-cut shirts and mesh short-sleeves are abetted by waist-covering belts and enormous, draping trousers. Vaccarello has elevated the conceit of androgynous Saint Laurent styling to new heights, with bare-chested models swaggering down the runway with only a cropped leather jacket or see-through scoop-neck shirt atop the wide pants. Minimalist sandals, thin scarves and minute silver jewellery reinforce the collection’s casual refusal of gender typing.