This season’s greatest fashion mavericks.
Fashion weeks may come and go, but as the saying goes, “We’ll always have Paris.” The city has always held a special regard in the industry for cultivating some of the most innovative designers out there, from disruptors such as Demna Gvasalia at heritage luxury houses, to newcomers like Hiromichi Ochiai making a stop from Japan.
HBX rounds up this season’s greatest fashion mavericks.
Thom Browne
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Thom Browne’s menswear collection took a trip to the beach this season, albeit one straight out of a Tim Burton film. Opening with a sharp, besuited man donning a leather shark’s mask, Browne set the tone for a bizarrely post-apocalyptic scene set by the sea. Never one to restrain from dramatic productions, Browne made sure to include plenty of absurdly intricate references to coastal life. Feathered blazers and seagull-like masks made an appearance, as did retro swim caps and sunglasses. Despite this, all the elements of a great
Thom Browne collection were present behind the theatrics. Sharply cut short suits were done in summery lemon yellows, moss greens and sky blues, bringing his fine tailoring into the present.
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Facetasm
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Facetasm may have already grown a cult following in Japan, but the streetwear brand helmed by Hiromichi Ochiai made a fresh debut onto Paris runways this season. With expectations running high, Ochiai was eager to impress, and evidently did not disappoint. Bringing its signature off-kilter tailoring across continents,
Facetasm showed multiple deconstructed outerwear pieces, alongside asymmetrical shirts featuring a melange of missing sleeves, mismatched collars and overblown proportions. Finishing off with bright digital prints in raspberry pinks and yellows,
Facetasm brought a breath of fresh air into the typically dreary fall season.
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Undercover
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Jun Takahashi’s
Undercover is known for going against the tide of fashion, such that audiences have learned to expect the unexpected every season. The brand’s collection this season, titled “Improvised Concepts,” certainly runs in that vein. Takahashi primarily drew inspiration from workwear, but patching elements together in such an idiosyncratic way that the resulting pieces were anything but utilitarian. One-sided vests were emblazoned with contemplative phrases, and billowing coats with vivid tartan patterns. Highlights of the collection include capes printed with fantastical motifs of unicorns and skeletons, seemingly incongruous but fitting seamlessly with Takahashi’s off-the-cuff narrative.
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White Mountaineering
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Yosuka Aizawa’s
White Mountaineering may have started off in performance wear, but the brand has evolved far from its functional roots since. This season’s dazzlingly printed outerwear served as proof of the matter - Aizawa experimented with vivid camo patterns in khaki and shocking pinks as well as wild jungle prints evoking the subtropics, striking a contrast to the clean-cut technical coats they adorned. Continuing on with the brand’s collaboration with adidas, Aizawa embellished his garments with abstracted iterations of the Three Stripes, bringing an innovative spirit to activewear.
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Boris Bidjan Saberi
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Boris Bidjan Saberi’s spring collection was headlined by a skinhead model in a metal mouthguard and straitjacket-like outerwear - a dystopian scene straight out of The Silence of the Lambs. No, the designer didn’t intend to have his wearers channel Hannibal Lecter vibes, but his “Post Humanism” collection certainly conveyed a post-apocalyptic feeling. The color palette itself was inspired by the erosion, featuring a spectrum from gunmetal greys to rusted browns. The collection featured the classic dystopian staples of oversized tees and military jackets, but even so, Saberi’s signature touch shone through in the form of his sharply tailored coats and minimalist vests.
Shop 11 by Boris Sidjan Saberi Now
