CHINOISERIE REVIVAL

New York, Paris and London may be the fashion capitals of the world, but for the past several seasons, designers have been drifting eastward in search of inspiration. Perhaps it was the Met’s “China: Through the Looking Glass” fashion exhibition last summer that revived the interest in chinoiserie -- a style inspired by art and design from China, Japan and other Asian countries -- but soon after the 2015 exhibition, Asian-influenced motifs and silhouettes began popping up all over the high fashion runways. This season alone, we saw richly embroidered souvenir jackets at Marc Jacobs, kimonos at Thom Browne and silken shirts printed with Japanese cranes at Louis Vuitton. We’re celebrating designers from the East and the West whose garments capture the spirit of the Orient. Asian fashion is famous for its opulent fabrics and no-holds-barred embroidery, hence no selection of chinoiserie would be complete without the richly decorated souvenir jackets that have become pervasive on runways this season. Souvenir jackets, or sukajan, were originally designed for American soldiers to take home as gifts from Japan after World War II, hence its name. The original garment was crafted in a baseball jacket silhouette, and embroidered with Japanese motifs such as cherry blossoms, dragons and geishas. The souvenir jacket’s modern incarnations may no longer be made from wartime parachute silk, but they successfully transplant traditional iconography onto modern silhouettes. Japanese brand Phenomenon gives the souvenir jacket an athletic twist by crafting it in a varsity jacket silhouette, complete with mesh sleeves and ribbed edges. The jacket is embroidered with Buddhist mandala designs in minimal white stitching, balancing intricacy and simplicity at the same time. Marc Jacobs takes a more traditional approach to the souvenir jacket, embellishing its black silk jacket with a snarling tiger -- a potent symbol of power and invincibility. We can’t think of any other statement piece so rich in culture, symbolism and history. Discover more Asian-inspired styles now on HBX. Shot in ethos, an artistic lifestyle store and cafe located in Kennedy Town, Hong Kong. The concept store offers a variety of apparel, home goods, publications and cuisine that celebrate a simplified style of living. Visit their website to learn more.

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