On the Paris Fashion Week runway, Undercover designer Jun Takahashi swerves away from his streetwear staple as of late into austerity. Set in the theme song of director Wong Kar-wai’s 2046 by Shigeru Umebayashi, the Spring/Summer 2020 Collection resonates with the sci-fi and romance oriented theme of reclaiming what was lost. “No more street style,” said Jun, and the black monochromatic offering manifests the dedication to move on from the graphic heavy trope.
In an array of trimmed and tailored silhouettes, Jun stays true to the mantras “We make noise not clothes” through various eerie minutiae. Seen in the spider-web-pleated shirts and coats with stripes created from permanent presses or bonded leather panelling, the emphasis on details and precise craft also runs in the trousers with knee cut-outs and knitwear that juxtaposed different weaves.
Sympathetic to Cindy Sherman’s duality of kindness and fear, Jun once again shows courtesy to the photographer alongside several renditions of Vampire silhouettes from Nosferatu that lent visual impact to a host of sleek shirting, boxy overshirts, nipped blazers and form-fitting overcoats. Lightweight wool slacks in loose and slim cuts give the muted layers above an air of formality, even when they took on lurid proportions.
Check out the photos from the Undercover runway show and scroll below to shop the latest styles. Click here to read more about Paris Fashion Week.