Menswear has long been overshadowed by its more elaborate and flamboyant sister, but in the past few seasons it has earned its own place in the spotlight. New York Fashion Week: Men’s has only been around for three seasons, but the standalone showcase has already built a reputation for identifying emerging designers in American menswear, from Public School to Uri Minkoff. Breaking away from menswear’s reputation for sticking to the same classic silhouettes with mere styling twists, these brands are a breath of fresh air to what sometimes seems like a static industry. We round up the standout shows of the week
It’s not often that a menswear brand draws inspiration from a pioneer of feminist art, but Maiden Noir is not known for its conventional leanings. This season, the Tokyo and Seattle-based streetwear brand was influenced by the landscape paintings of Georgia O’Keefe, creating a collection in hues of dusky pinks, pale blues and olive greens. The brand, which has always been a stickler for tailoring and quality textiles, was naturally drawn to recreating military workwear silhouettes from the ‘40s and ‘50s. Highlights of the collection include deconstructed overcoats and utility jackets in bright hues. Infusing a youthful edge into the garments with relaxed cuts, the brand still retained its signature look with minimal silhouettes and clean tailoring.
When nautical fashion comes to mind, one tends to think of Breton stripes and anchor bracelets, not wetsuits and outfits for deep sea diving. Japanese brand N.HOOLYWOOD, helmed by Daisuke Obana, certainly had the more sporty interpretation in mind when they designed this season’s offerings, crafted from neoprene and other technical textiles. The first half of the collection featured surf-inspired outerwear, constructed in minimal silhouettes but in eye-popping shades of turquoise, navy and Yves Klein blue. The latter half of the collection had a more laidback seaman’s vibe best suited for those looking to relax during the summer (rather than engage in extreme watersports). Separates constructed with lightweight fabrics were printed with abstract oceanic motifs, making for a subtle but impactful ode to the sea.
Chris Stamp and his eponymous streetwear brand are no strangers to the spotlight – Stamp was a finalist for last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award – but the designer hasn’t let the fame get to his head. This season, STAMPD stuck to its roots in military-influenced streetwear, producing a collection of utilitarian pieces in a austere palette. As always, the brand effortlessly combines uniformity with a relaxed aesthetic. Signature bomber jackets are rendered with an oversized fit, and even the classic suit blazer has been dressed down with long shorts.