Japanese menswear label UNDERCOVER lives by the motto “We Make Noise, Not Clothes,” and indeed, its founder Jun Takahashi is not known for being understated. Having started UNDERCOVER at Bunka Fashion College under the mentorship of COMME des GARÇONS’ Rei Kawakubo, Takahashi grew his brand to become one of the most prolific and influential avant-garde voices in the Japanese fashion scene, perhaps even worldwide. His inventive creations have blurred the boundaries between streetwear and couture, elevating Japanese design to a whole new level.
This season, Takahashi reflects on his creative evolution throughout the years. It’s been 25 years since UNDERCOVER was conceived, and Takahashi decided to design a throwback collection in celebration of the anniversary. Titled “The Greatest Hits,” UNDERCOVER’s 2016 spring/summer collection references the past albeit with a modern twist. Classic silhouettes have been updated with eye-catching graphics and bold colors that give the garments a youthful vibe, with some even featuring Star Wars motifs to appeal to the current generation of wearers. References to Takahashi’s past collections were pervasive throughout, from the longline coat with removable segments and graphic print inspired by his 1998 fall/winter “Exchange” collection, to the trucker jacket with an electric blue stripe that took cues from his 1997 fall/winter “Leaf” collection. With this nostalgic yet current collection, it’s clear that Takahashi knows how to look back to the past without being held back.